Stuck in the Mud

There are two consistent things about living in Nicaragua:

1) If you own a car here (even with 4WD), it is guaranteed to get stuck at some point – in the mud, in a river, in the estuary – somewhere, sometime.

2) If you do get stuck, hordes of people will help you out…and a few will sit and watch the process!

At a time when I was feeling incredibly homesick for the convenience of things in the States, the amount of help we received renewed my faith in living this different lifestyle.

For the new car owner, I suggest purchaing the following items for your car (all easily found in Managua at either PriceSmart, SINSA, or a local ferreteria:

-Durable chain with a hook (for pulling your car out of sticky situations – ropes tend to break)

-Flashlight

-Tire pump (these can be charged at home and then carried in your car or you can plug it into your car’s cigarette lighter)

-Jack

-Jumper cables

-Large jug of water (cars tend to overheat easily here – it’s important to check your fluids regularly and refill your radiator before this happens)

-Patience – can’t buy this one, but be sure to bring plenty with you!

 

 

1st Anniversary Celebration

This blog has not received the attention it deserves lately as Justin and I just returned from our 2nd trip back to the States.  I asked Justin for advice on what to write about this time around and realized – I think a little to his dismay – that I forgot to put anything up about our first anniversary celebration – oops!

After a few exhausting weeks of work back in August, I had pretty much accepted the fact that we wouldn’t be able to do anything special for our 1st anniversary.  We were both tired, had just spent a good chunk of money on the now infamous Gallo Rojo (our truck) and I knew that I had not pulled together any kind of plans.  

Much to my pleasant surprise, my husband was ahead of the game and booked us a 2-night stay at Hotel Barceló Montelimar Beach.  Since our stay there, I’ve heard many mixed reviews on this place, but I must admit that we thoroughly enjoyed our get-away.  We had a private bungalow, steps from the beach, the largest pool in the Central America, and the hotel’s restaurants.  While this place clearly caters to entertaining large groups (the overly enthusiastic activity planners were proof of this), we were still able to relax, recharge, and enjoy each other’s company.  The food was less than stellar, but the buffet restaurants allowed for feedbag-style portions and guaranteed the ability to find something we both liked for each meal!

The Simple Beauty of Nicaragua

Very few words are needed to describe this amazing experience of riding horseback on the beaches of San Juan del Sur.  A rainy day at Morgan’s Rock turned into an awesome day of adventure including the beach, horses, and even a double rainbow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


The Argonaut

 

 

Justin's Urel

Justin's Urel

Our friend, Gladis, was nice enough to take us out on the Argonaut – one of the boats from Morgan’s Rock Eco-Lodge.  We motored north up the coast past Maderas, Majagual, and eventually dropped anchor near Playa Blanca and jumped off the boat for a swim.  Our Captain, David, and his assistant, Tito, were great at helping everyone learn how to fish.  In total, the group pulled out about 4 urels and a black tuna.

San Juan del Sur Bay

San Juan del Sur Bay

 

 

 

The Argonaut

The Argonaut

Surf Sanctuary

The Surf Sanctuary in Las Salinas

 

We just got back from an awesome weekend.  Our friend, Baldo, is the President of the Nicaraguan National Surf Circuit, so we decided to head up Popoyo to watch the last of four surf competitions.  Popoyo is a small village north west of San Juan del Sur, made popular by the surfing community for its good surfbreaks.  

 

With the exception of a few raindrops, we had beautiful weather.  My favorite part of the whole weekend was our stay at The Surf Sanctuary, a beautiful community of casitas located in Las Salinas.  The Surf Sanctuary offers tour packages, meals, etc., but we mostly just enjoyed the beauty of our surroundings from the colorful flowers to the owners’ friendly dog.  If you are thinking about a trip up that way, I highly recommend checking this place out (and I’m not getting paid to plug them)!

 

Surfer Boy

Surfer Boy

 

Flowers at the Surf Sanctuary

Flowers at the Surf Sanctuary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cooper Chasing Pigs

Cooper Chasing Pigs

That’s the Weigh it is

So, we’re back to our daily lives in San Juan.   Upon first seeing some of our Nicaraguan co-workers after 3 weeks home, the first thing the girls said to me was “oh – que delgada…” (“how thin”), with smiles on their faces.  I’ve finally become accustomed to this ongoing evaluation of my body, but…

During our first week here back in January, both women in the office told us that we looked much fatter than the photos they had seen of us. My jaw nearly fell to the ground and I was close to tears, having skirted around the issue of weight for 30 years in the States. However, after a week or two here in San Juan, I realized that people are simply more straightforward and say what they think and feel – something I have come to find quite refreshing. Cheers to being honest, I suppose!

Just Another Day at the Office…in Nicaragua

Before Justin and I departed for our 3-week trip to Boston, we had a flat tire – front left.  Pretty typical here in Nicaragua.  The roads have improved dramatically over the last 5 years (so I’ve been told).  Nevertheless, flat tires are a common occurrence.  While we were gone, we were fortunate enough to have a friend help to repair it.

Fast forward 3 weeks to our return…we are back in San Juan and the front left tire is in great condition.  My friend, Emily, is due to arrive in Nicaragua later this afternoon and Justin and I are planning to depart for Managua to retrieve her from the airport.  Justin and I are both trying to cram in some work at Aurora Beachfront Realty and Vacation Rentals Nicaragua, respectively when Pedro (the persistent bearer of bad news when it comes to our car) strolls in to announce that we have a flat tire – a very flat tire.  Annoying?  Yes?  Terrible?  No.  All we need to do is put on the spare, drive the car to the mechanic, and get the tire repaired.  It’s only noon, so we’ve got plenty of time before we need to head to Managua.  

There’s only one problem…The spare tire is locked to the back of our truck, lovingly nicknamed El Gallo Rojo.  Okay, no problem, we’ll just unlock the spare…except that when we purchased our beloved used car, Justin threw out the little key to the spare, not understanding its very important purpose.  Well, we’ll just drill off the lock. *Note, that I use “we” pretty loosely here, as it’s really all Justin running around doing the work, while I sit back and watch.  However, the reality is that I’ve done this to preserve our marriage because I know that if I get involved, I’ll only aggravate the situation.  So, Justin, with the help of Giovanni – who works in the office – acquires a drill from a friend, and begins drilling, only to discover that the drill is losing juice quickly and he doesn’t have the battery pack to recharge the drill.  Justin is a very happy man.

 

The problem lock

The problem lock

 

 

 

2 pm – Justin has stripped down to his shorts and is sweating in the mid-afternoon sun.  The clock is ticking and we haven’t even gotten the lock off, let alone taken the car to the mechanic.  The drill is dead and the drill bit is completely worn down.  We need to leave by 4 to make it to the airport in time.

2:30 pm – Justin rides the office bicycle down the beach road to pick up the charger to the drill and to buy a new drill bit.


 

3 pm – It’s now raining and a group of men have gathered around the car  to “help,” which really means that they are all watching and giving advice, but not really doing any manual labor, except for Justin who is now under the car, still sweating, and covered in grease.

Spare tire?

Spare tire?

 

 

 

 The spare is off the back of the car and the leaky tire is off the front of the car.

 

Justin's "helpers"

Justin's "helpers"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the meantime, our friends have called and emailed to offer their help in picking Emily up from the airport, which has relieved some of the time crunch in repairing the tire.

 

3:30 Justin is on his way to the mechanic.

 

The car is operational again though we fully expect to wake up to another flat tire tomorrow morning.  We are heading off the Happy Hour.  Just another typical day in the life of an Expat…

A Stranger in my Hometown…A Visit to the States After Living Abroad

I’ve been living abroad for just about 5 months now and the time quickly approached for my first visit back to the States.  I eagerly anticipated my reunion with family and friends, but also felt oddly anxious about this pending vacation.  Have I accomplished enough abroad in 5 months to warrant a visit home?  Is my Spanish strong enough to carry on a conversation with my Gringo friends who studied Spanish in high school and want to test my newly acquired language skills?  Am I tan?  Have I lost any weight?  Have I lost too much weight?  What will happen to my anxiety-prone, super attached dog while I’m gone?  How do I reconcile my new Nicaragüense lifestyle with my North American upbringing?  What kind of culture shock should I expect to experience and am I bad person if I don’t experience any and my first stop off the plane is a Dunkin’ Donuts?

Now home, many of those fears have been assuaged.  At my age, I have friends who accept me regardless of whether or not I can quote Rueben Dario and they automatically tell me that I sound great and know enough not to comment on my physical appearance – positive or negative.  And my family lovingly tells me I’ve put on a few pounds J

It is also an incredible experience to view your own hometown as a foreigner.  I’ve lived in Boston for the last 10 years, but this year, I spent my very first 4th of July at the Hatch Shell, on the Esplanade, among 150,000 other Patriots.   I took photos as if I were a tourist, snapping pictures of the Citgo sign, the Hancock Building, and the Charles River.  It was a pleasant surprise to turn things inside out.

However, there are some challenges that accompany a first trip home.  My 19-month old niece had no memory of her favorite aunt Sarah, having last met me when she was just a little over a year-old. Upon our reintroduction, she ran sobbing past my wide-stretched arms and into those of my sister’s, when she thought my hug was an attempt at kidnapping her stuffed dog.  Three days later, we have found a middle ground and she now Gracefully nods off in my arms for her mid-afternoon nap.

It is also a challenge to reintegrate into the world of consumerism. Though maybe not a conscious decision, part of the move to a third world country was the blissful escape from the consumption and “Keeping up with the Jones'” mentality we had become such a part of in North America.  However, upon our return to the States, I found it all too easy to slip right back into regular trips to the mall and the “need to have” mindset.  It required frequent self-checks to reevaluate what I truly needed versus what I just wanted. 

It is also exciting and invigorating to see all of the people you’ve missed over the last 5 months, but it is also exhausting.  There is an emotional obligation, not only to your family and friends, but also to yourself, to see everyone that you’ve missed while abroad.  It’s fun to regale people with tales of getting the 4×4 stuck in the mud…twice in two days (and getting pulled out by oxen) and make them jealous with the idea of spending afternoons at the beach, cerveza in hand.  However, by the 10th repetition of the story, it begins to sound oddly rehearsed.

 

 And more importantly, there is the realization that back home, life went on without me.  While we spew our tales of tropical paradise they are eagerly waiting for an opportunity to share their own stories of growth, which I have tactfully tried to avoid hearing, for fear that listening to them will only make me terribly homesick and ready to jump ship, turn in my airline ticket and stay put, in Boston. By our second week home, I broke into tears in front of my husband from sheer exhaustion and expressed the need for a vacation.

 

Then, there is the definition of home, altogether. I throw the word around loosely, but the truth is that, even half a year into my Nicaraguan sabbatical, I don’t quite know where home is anymore. To further complicate matters, after the obligatory “life is clearly treating you well there,” everyone follows by asking when we intend to move back home – to Boston.  I’ve learned to take this as a compliment, suggesting that people miss us and want us home; however, it does re-open the proverbial can of worms.  How long are we staying abroad?  Is this a lifetime decision? 

 

The reality is that life abroad is pretty incredible and that first trip back is revitalizing and essential.  Nevertheless, it does come with its challenges, some great and some small.

Some recommendations:

-Plan some alone time (or time with your spouse, significant other, etc.), particularly if this trip is intended to also be a vacation.  The first time home can be exhausting, filled with friendly reunions and family visits and you’ll need some time away.

-Remember that your friends and family had lives going on, too, while you were away.  It’s important to ask about them and not hyper-focus on your life-style change.  Most people will inquire after your big adventure, but be sure to reciprocate.

-It’s cliché, but do your best to live in the moment.  I spent the better part of a week waking up in the morning and counting how many days I had left before returning to San Juan – not because I couldn’t wait to get back – but because I was already sad about leaving – and I had just arrived!  Enjoy the time you have back in the States.

-Do be prepared for some culture shock. 

-Before departing Nicaragua, take stock of what you currently have and make a list of the things you want to purchase while in the States.  It’s exciting to return home to Suburbia/Mallandia/etc., but it’s also overwhelming having relied on 3-5 stores max for the greater part of a season.  It’s best to return home with a plan of what you need to purchase, and get the shopping out of the way, so that you can spend the remainder of your vacation with family, friends, and relaxing,

-Bring limited items and an extra suitcase to the States so that you have room in your suitcase to return with things.  These days, airlines are nickel and diming us for everything, so it’s preferable to pay for extra luggage in only one direction.

 

– Have fun!

Packing/Moving List – Nicaragua

Before moving to San Juan del Sur, I was lucky enough to make a connection with a woman who had made a similar transition to Nicaragua, with her boyfriend, just a few years before us.  Her advice on what things to bring to Nicaragua were invaluable.  In the same spirit, I’d like to pass along some of her words of wisdom, as well as a few of my own regarding preparing for the big move:

1) Bring creature comforts that will help ease the transition – photos from home, your favorite tea, books, etc.

2) Good linens are expensive in Nicaragua – they can be purchased in places like Pricesmart (in bulk), but I recommend bringing a set or two of sheets and towels.  

3) Flip flops!  I rarely wear any other type of footwear.  

4) Sunglasses

5) Electronics are worth bringing if they are things you use regularly, i.e. laptops, iPods, etc.  Appliances are more expensive in Nicaragua, so at some point, you need to evaluate what you need from home or what you can live without.  I’ve learned to toast bread in our oven and defrost food in the sun.

6) Headlamps are a great investment (and actually very inexpensive).  When the power goes out, you will be happy to be hand’s free.

7) Medication that you require and you can’t get in Nicaragua.  It’s helpful to know the generic names of your medications, as well as the dosage, because you can often find more common ones in pharmacies in Nicaragua.

8) Shorts – might seem obvious, but I never wore shorts when I lived in the States.  I always stuck with capris, etc.  However, it gets hot down here and you will appreciate having  lightweight clothes.

9) Clothing in general: bring breathable fabrics – cotton, linen.  

10) Raincoat – stay away from heavy, unbreathable gortex.  It stays pretty hot when it rains and you don’t want to sweat under your coat.  It’s also worth investing in a looooong raincoat that falls below your knees.  In heavy rains, your lower half will get soaked in a waist-length raincoat.

11) My husband can’t live without his Goldbond powder – it helps to ease the chaffing during the really humid days 🙂

 

It’s also helpful “to reevaluate what your “needs” are and simplify them. Once you’ve spent some time among Nicaraguan families and seen how much they are able to do with so few resources, you might reconsider some things you previously thought were indispensable. This is highly personal, but you might very well discover that in your new lifestyle in Central America you can live more simply than you’d expected.”  borrowed from Transitions Abroad.

Moving to Nicaragua with Dogs

For pet owners considering a move abroad, the question of what to do with your beloved furry friend during your sabbatical eventually enters the picture.  For me, it was a no-brainer – Cooper was coming with us to Nicaragua.  I’ve had him since he was 6-weeks old and I wasn’t about to abandon him in his 10th year so that I could live the tropical life abroad.  Easier said than done?  Yes and no.  I am certain that transporting Cooper, our lab/coon-hound mutt, across the ocean caused me much more anxiety than it ever did him.  Nevertheless, some planning on our end helped ease the process and produce both a frisky pup and a relieved owner at Nicaragua customs.  

Some tips:

-Visit with your vet prior to your move to determine your dog’s health and ability to manage the flight.  Also, request a copy of your dog’s health and vaccination records.  Make sure dog is up to date on all vaccinations, including rabies.  In some cases, you might be required to de-worm your dog, as well.  Also, research vets in the location in which you intend to move.  In San Juan, The Stone and Waves Veterinary Clinic is a good choice.

-Within 2 weeks of your departure, schedule a vet appt. to obtain necessary health certificates for your dog.  We received mixed messages on whether or not this paperwork needed to be notarized, so we had it done to be safe.  In our case, it actually needed to be stamped by the USDA-APHIS office, which was located more than an hour from our home.  We also were told by some that the papers needed to be stamped by the Nicaraguan Consulate.  After much back and forth, we learned that this was, in fact, not necessary.

-Purchase a crate for transport (must be large enough for dog to stand up and turn around in).  If you don’t already own one, I recommend checking Craig’s List.  The day you depart, put a t-shirt that you slept in the previous night in your dog’s crate – he’ll appreciate your scent and it will help to calm him.

-Call the airline you intend to fly with and ask about their travel requirements/restrictions.  Many have temperature and size restrictions.  You may need to be prepared to send your dog before or after you, due to temperature variations or change your own flight if you want to fly at the same time.  Keep temperature/time of year in mind when you are booking your flight.  Some might also require that your dog be de-planed by airplane staff during long layovers, which is an additional cost to you, but well worth it for the health of your dog.

-Airlines WILL NOT ACCEPT pets that have been sedated with tranquilizers, as they are not able to able to adjust to sudden movements in the flight and can get hurt.  However, my vet did recommend an herbal anxiety reducer like PetCalm, which appeared to work well.

-Upon arrival in Managua, we were told that we would need an agent to receive the dog, for a fee of USD$35.  This was not the case; however, we did find (while in Houston, in transit), that the Managua customs agent was leaving at 4 pm (we were due to arrive at 6 pm and told that they would be there until midnight) and they were insisting that because the agent would not be there to clear the dog, Cooper would have to spend the night in the airport.  I simply refused to allow this to happen.  Thanks to our wonderful friends, who arrived at the Managua airport early and pulled some strings, the customs agents stayed long enough to clear Cooper so that he was there to greet us, barking away, when we came through customs!

The USDA has a great site with helpful information on flying with pets internationally.

For people flying to Nicaragua with pets, Continental Airlines (thru Houston) will kennel your dog during layovers – taking them out, walking and peeing them, etc.  We did not love the service we received, but prior to traveling, it definitely gave us peace of mind to know that someone would care for Cooper in transit.

After all the hassle, I must say that it was entirely worth it!  Cooper is living his retirement in a tropical climate that has proven to be great for his health!  He is happier than ever and so am I having the peace of mind knowing that my “family” is in tact!