If you’re in the touristy mood and headed to León, a quick stop in León Viejo might be worth your time. Perhaps not the most exciting tourist spot; however, this UNESCO World Heritage site does provide some interesting history of Nicaragua. USD$2 gives you access to this site, as well as a tour from a well-versed guide. The scenic ride alone, out to León Viejo, makes this trip well worth it.
To access León Viejo by car, follow the Carretera Sur (the highway that runs between Managua and León) north from Nagarote towards La Paz Centro. You will see a sign for the ruins just before entering La Paz Centro. Take this right and follow signs to the ruins for approximately 25 minutes.
En route to León, also consider stopping for quesillos in Nagarote. Quesillos traditionally consist of salty cheese wrapped in a tortilla and flavored with onions, cream, and other ingredients. You can also purchase quesillos in a small plastic bag.
25 Kilometers northeast of the colonial city León, lies Volcan Cerro Negro. This volcano is one of the younger volcanoes in the area (less than 200 years old), but also one of the most unique. Thanks to a 1999 eruption and constant volcanic activity, Cerro Negro lacks any vegetation and is covered almost entirely in black volcanic ash. Though only 400 meters high, the hike is slightly challenging as there is no paved path, only loose rock and ash along the rim of the crater. Even then, the hike takes just 45 minutes and rewards you with spectacular 360 degree views that include volcanoes Momotombo, El Hoyo, Telica, and San Cristóbal.
Just as incredible as the views is the descent that awaits you once you reach the top. If you are so inclined, visitors can hike up with a long wooden board and then ride it down the other side. The volcanic ash and rock makes for an incredibly fast ride down the volcano. We jumped at the opportunity to try this and were not disappointed. The ride down lasted no more than 60 seconds and was unbelievable. Going first, I failed to pay attention to the braking instructions and flew down the side of the volcano at warp speeds, only to wipe out (twice)! I have the war wounds to show off including some nasty looking road rash (or in this case, lava rash) down both forearms. I’m still picking ash and rocks out of my ears. Nevertheless, this experience is unlike any other and I would recommend it to anyone looking for an adventure.
My understanding is that a number of tour companies, operating out of León, can set you up with a tour to Cerro Negro. I have heard they are all quite reliable, including Tierra Tour and Va Pues; however, I cannot speak personally to their service. We were lucky enough to go with a friend who had been boarding before, so we drove ourselves to the base of the volcano, where there is a small building renting out boards.
Some helpful tips if you decide to visit Cerro Negro:
-Wear sneakers or hiking boots, as well as long pants. You might even consider a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms should you roll off the board!
-Consider bringing a handkerchief or another clothing item that you can wrap around your face.
-For the same reason, wear sunglasses to keep the rocks and ash out of your eyes.
My absentee ballot arrived in the mail today. For many obvious reasons, this election holds great significance. Most important to me, at this very moment, is my ability to exercise this right as far away as Nicaragua. I encourage all citizens to do the same! Information on absentee voting is available at: http://www.fvap.gov/
Regardless of where we live, we all eventually need to see the doctor. In my case, it was simply time for a regular check-up having put mine off for close to two years. Friends provided me with numerous referrals to physicians in Managua, but I still felt an unexpected level of anxiety about this appointment. Though I’ve lived here, in Nicaragua, for close to 9 months, I simply did not know what to expect. Perhaps I was worried that I didn’t know enough Spanish to understand medical terms or that my doctor wouldn’t understand my questions and concerns in English. More likely, I still hold on to some assumptions and stereotypes about medical care in a third world country, though I hate to admit it. Regardless of the reason, I approached this appointment with some trepidation.
I cannot begin to express how pleased I was with both my physician’s care, as well as the facilities at Vivian Pellas Hospital in Managua. To begin, the nurse, Cristina, was helpful and warm. When my appointment had to be moved due to a surgery, she found a way to fit us in on the same day, as we were already en route from San Juan. My doctor, Dr. Mendieta, was informative, thorough, and had a sense of humor. His office had more advanced technology than anything I’ve experienced back in the States. He also made himself very accessible – he called the same day with test results and provided me with not only his office number, but his cell and home numbers, as well. The pharmacy and lab, within the hospital, were easy to locate and incredibly efficient (I waited no more than 5 minutes).
Without question, I was pleased, relieved, and incredibly happy with the services; however, I think it is still important to remember that not everyone has access to this level of medical care. While the hospital is physically available to all, many people do not have the means to travel to Managua. Though not expensive by US standards, costs are often prohibitive for locals. As an alternative, plenty of people rely on local health centers, which need support, as they are often understaffed and maxed out on resources. Hopefully, I will have more on this as we find ways to help…
There are two consistent things about living in Nicaragua:
1) If you own a car here (even with 4WD), it is guaranteed to get stuck at some point – in the mud, in a river, in the estuary – somewhere, sometime.
2) If you do get stuck, hordes of people will help you out…and a few will sit and watch the process!
At a time when I was feeling incredibly homesick for the convenience of things in the States, the amount of help we received renewed my faith in living this different lifestyle.
For the new car owner, I suggest purchaing the following items for your car (all easily found in Managua at either PriceSmart, SINSA, or a local ferreteria:
-Durable chain with a hook (for pulling your car out of sticky situations – ropes tend to break)
-Flashlight
-Tire pump (these can be charged at home and then carried in your car or you can plug it into your car’s cigarette lighter)
-Jack
-Jumper cables
-Large jug of water (cars tend to overheat easily here – it’s important to check your fluids regularly and refill your radiator before this happens)
-Patience – can’t buy this one, but be sure to bring plenty with you!
Two stuck cars
Mud bath
Caked in mud
Our car is finally out of the mud and everyone stays to help another car
An Expat Life in Nicaragua 