If you’re in the touristy mood and headed to León, a quick stop in León Viejo might be worth your time. Perhaps not the most exciting tourist spot; however, this UNESCO World Heritage site does provide some interesting history of Nicaragua. USD$2 gives you access to this site, as well as a tour from a well-versed guide. The scenic ride alone, out to León Viejo, makes this trip well worth it.
To access León Viejo by car, follow the Carretera Sur (the highway that runs between Managua and León) north from Nagarote towards La Paz Centro. You will see a sign for the ruins just before entering La Paz Centro. Take this right and follow signs to the ruins for approximately 25 minutes.
En route to León, also consider stopping for quesillos in Nagarote. Quesillos traditionally consist of salty cheese wrapped in a tortilla and flavored with onions, cream, and other ingredients. You can also purchase quesillos in a small plastic bag.
25 Kilometers northeast of the colonial city León, lies Volcan Cerro Negro. This volcano is one of the younger volcanoes in the area (less than 200 years old), but also one of the most unique. Thanks to a 1999 eruption and constant volcanic activity, Cerro Negro lacks any vegetation and is covered almost entirely in black volcanic ash. Though only 400 meters high, the hike is slightly challenging as there is no paved path, only loose rock and ash along the rim of the crater. Even then, the hike takes just 45 minutes and rewards you with spectacular 360 degree views that include volcanoes Momotombo, El Hoyo, Telica, and San Cristóbal.
Just as incredible as the views is the descent that awaits you once you reach the top. If you are so inclined, visitors can hike up with a long wooden board and then ride it down the other side. The volcanic ash and rock makes for an incredibly fast ride down the volcano. We jumped at the opportunity to try this and were not disappointed. The ride down lasted no more than 60 seconds and was unbelievable. Going first, I failed to pay attention to the braking instructions and flew down the side of the volcano at warp speeds, only to wipe out (twice)! I have the war wounds to show off including some nasty looking road rash (or in this case, lava rash) down both forearms. I’m still picking ash and rocks out of my ears. Nevertheless, this experience is unlike any other and I would recommend it to anyone looking for an adventure.
My understanding is that a number of tour companies, operating out of León, can set you up with a tour to Cerro Negro. I have heard they are all quite reliable, including Tierra Tour and Va Pues; however, I cannot speak personally to their service. We were lucky enough to go with a friend who had been boarding before, so we drove ourselves to the base of the volcano, where there is a small building renting out boards.
Some helpful tips if you decide to visit Cerro Negro:
-Wear sneakers or hiking boots, as well as long pants. You might even consider a long sleeve shirt to protect your arms should you roll off the board!
-Consider bringing a handkerchief or another clothing item that you can wrap around your face.
-For the same reason, wear sunglasses to keep the rocks and ash out of your eyes.
This blog has not received the attention it deserves lately as Justin and I just returned from our 2nd trip back to the States. I asked Justin for advice on what to write about this time around and realized – I think a little to his dismay – that I forgot to put anything up about our first anniversary celebration – oops!
After a few exhausting weeks of work back in August, I had pretty much accepted the fact that we wouldn’t be able to do anything special for our 1st anniversary. We were both tired, had just spent a good chunk of money on the now infamous Gallo Rojo (our truck) and I knew that I had not pulled together any kind of plans.
Much to my pleasant surprise, my husband was ahead of the game and booked us a 2-night stay at Hotel Barceló Montelimar Beach. Since our stay there, I’ve heard many mixed reviews on this place, but I must admit that we thoroughly enjoyed our get-away. We had a private bungalow, steps from the beach, the largest pool in the Central America, and the hotel’s restaurants. While this place clearly caters to entertaining large groups (the overly enthusiastic activity planners were proof of this), we were still able to relax, recharge, and enjoy each other’s company. The food was less than stellar, but the buffet restaurants allowed for feedbag-style portions and guaranteed the ability to find something we both liked for each meal!
A few weeks ago, we headed north to Granada for one of the larger Hipicas in the country. A hipica is a grand parade of horses throughout the town, traditionally honoring a well respected community member and often marking the beginning of a fiesta patronal (saint’s day). Though the temperatures were well above 90 degrees, most of the locals were dressed to the nines in jeans, cowboy boots, hats, and even leather chaps. Many of the riders wore traditional dress, including full dresses and skirts. Those not participating in the parade arrived mostly to eat and drink (a lot). I’ve been told that historically, it’s rained during the Granada hipica, but on this particular day, it was hot!
The Mercado Masaya, just south of Managua, is an artisan market offering everything from hand-painted ceramics to crafted wood-work to murals of the surrounding towns to clothing, shoes, and more. It is a great stop-off on your way into or out of either Granada or Managua and an excellent place to visit if you are looking for gifts to bring home to friends and family.
One of the great things about having visitors is that they encourage us to explore the tourist activities that we otherwise think we are too busy to experience. During Emily’s visit, I did just that by throwing in the towel at work one day and heading 5 minutes down the Chocolata to Da Flying Frog Canopy Tour. It was a last minute decision to go and Da Flying Frog was able to pick us up at the Aurora Office in town and drive us to the base of the zip line, located on the border of a farm.
Upon our arrival, the guides gave us a quick tutorial and we headed up the hill in the Jeep. The Canopy tour starts at the top of a hill, providing commanding views of the Bay of San Juan, the Pacific, and town below. Once hooked in, you zip between 17 platforms connected by 16 cables, located high above the treetops. The longest cable is 328 meters; the highest one passes over a canyon measuring 70 meters deep; and at the fastest one you can reach a speed of 70 kilometers per hour.
This is a fantastic way to see San Juan from above – don’t miss out on the opportunity when you visit!
Very few words are needed to describe this amazing experience of riding horseback on the beaches of San Juan del Sur. A rainy day at Morgan’s Rock turned into an awesome day of adventure including the beach, horses, and even a double rainbow.
An Expat Life in Nicaragua 
