The Insider Guide to San Juan del Sur

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Hey everyone! If you are planning a trip to Nicaragua that includes San Juan del Sur, don’t miss out on this awesome e-book. Written by two highly knowledgeable expats (nope, not us) who have lived in and visited San Juan del Sur for years, this guide offers comprehensive information on everything from the best hotels to not-to-miss activities.

As explained on their website, the 180 page Ebook includes:

-Under the radar, little touted and off the beaten track experiences not covered in regular guidebooks (Miss any one of these and you’ll have to come back)
-Practical insider tips to plug you deeper into the region and get you immersed into local life in San Juan del Sur
-Why so many people go to Playa Maderas and dozens of alternative beaches that most travelers overlook
-6 different ways to experience San Juan del Sur to help you build the perfect itinerary
-A checklist of 101 things to do in San Juan del Sur
-The 5 mistakes that otherwise smart travelers make in San Juan del Sur (you’ll definitely want to avoid #4)
-Real world advice to ensure you have a smooth trip
-Interview with locals to connect you closer to the lives of the people who live here
-Romance secrets: 6 experiences that will blow your date’s mind… and yours
-Plus you’ll get coupons to top quality local businesses* (Use just one and the guidebook pays for itself)

Buy

Baby Gear Rental Business in San Juan del Sur!

It’s been a while since I’ve posted, but that’s because I’ve been busy developing my latest business venture: Mums and Bums Nicaragua – a baby gear rental shop for those of you visiting San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua with families! My good friend and business partner, Rosi, and I are super excited to introduce this new business to Nicaragua. Please visit and like our Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/mumsandbumsnicaragua to learn more and to stop abreast of new products for rent, upcoming promotions, and more! We can also arrange for babysitting services (with licensed early childhood development professionals). More great products and services coming soon!
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Help us to fund a new school campus in Nicaragua!

Dear Readers,

As most of you know, in 2008, Justin and I set out on a journey to Nicaragua.  What began as an extended honeymoon has turned into so much more – San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua has become our home and more importantly, it is now home to our two children: Lucinda and Theodore.

In 2009, our dear friend, Julie Speier, opened the doors to a small ½ day preschool.  Five years later, San Juan del Sur Day School has developed into a pre-k thru grade 2 International English School, educating expatriate and Nicaraguan children.  Julie’s vision does not end there.  By the year 2020, she hopes to have a fully operational Pre-k thru grade 12 school.

Our own daughter, Lucinda, has been attending the school for over a year now.  Each morning, before she has even cleared the sleep from her eyes, she inquires as to whether or not she has school that day.  She is often ready to depart for school a full hour before the lights have been turned on and the doors opened.  We delight in seeing our daughter take so much joy in learning.  And while she may not realize it quite yet, we know that she is already establishing the foundation for her education.  Some time next year, Theodore will also join his cohorts, perhaps becoming a member of San Juan del Sur Day School’s graduating class of 2031!

Due to its exponential growth, San Juan del Sur Day School is quickly outgrowing its current location.  Fortunately, the school recently received an incredibly generous donation of 30 acres of land upon which to make the dreams of San Juan del Sur Day School a reality.  Now, it is time to begin raising the funds to build those dreams.

Julie has played such a huge part in our lives, acting not only as schoolteacher and friend, but also as doula at the birth of both of our children.  Her commitment to the wellbeing of our children and those of San Juan del Sur is profound.  Now we can play a big part in her life and the lives of our children.  Below, you will find detailed information on the school and how to donate. 

http://www.indiegogo.com/at/sanjuandelsurdayschool/x/6505494
or
http://sanjuandelsurdayschool.com/contribute/

Please consider making a donation to the construction fund for San Juan del Sur Day School.  Every donation counts.  Thank you so much for taking the time to read this and for being such wonderful people in our lives.  Feel free to share and forward this to others who might be interested in helping.

Gratefully,

Sarah, Justin, Lucinda, and Theodore

San Juan del Sur Day School is a private International English school educating a diverse Nicaraguan and Expat student body of children from the ages of 18 months to eight years. We provide our students with engaging, stimulating and educational opportunities at all stages of development. We create a learning environment in which children are safe to make choices, exchange ideas, share feelings and gain some degree of autonomy. Our school helps children to develop that lifelong love of learning that will enable them to succeed in any environment. We are growing rapidly and can use your help! For information on how to support the school, please visit: http://sanjuandelsurdayschool.com/contribute/

Rugby Comes to San Juan del Sur

“Rugby is great. The players don’t wear helmets or padding; they just beat the living daylights out of each other and then go for a beer. I love that.” ~Joe Theismann

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San Juan is now proud to boast its first ever rugby team.  A collection of Nicaraguans and Expats, residents and backpackers, young and old, the team played in its second official tournament earlier this month in Managua.

This weekend was the first clash in the Nicaraguan Rugby 7′s Circuit and the team from San Juan del Sur did not disappoint, winning the tournament and all four matches by healthy margins.  Also noted was San Juan’s sartorial elegance–bright pink uniforms!

“We decided to wear the pink uniforms to raise awareness for breast cancer,” said Justin Fahey, the clubs media spokesman. He added, “We thought we’d try to do our part to help.”

Five teams are competing on the 7′s Circuit, which will be played over four more weekends in the coming months with the next round in Managua on October 26th.

San Juan beat Chorotega (MGA) 36-5, then defeated Los Lobos de la UNEN (MGA) by the same score.  Next up was the toughest win against Managua 19-5 and finally a sound 20-0 thumping over Granada.

Marc Noonan (UK) won the MVP of the tournament after scoring five tries.  Bastien Mahe (France) and Brett Ross (Australia) were also major contributors to the offensive onslaught.

The San Juan club is actively looking for members, especially local Sanjuaneños.  All ages and levels of experience are welcome.  Rugby 7′s is now an Olympic sport and the Nicaraguan national side will be selected from players on the Circuit.

Please visit San Juan del Sur Rugby Club page on Facebook if you want to come and learn how to play. 

Or contact Justin Fahey at 8810-1112 or Email: fahey.justin@gmail.com.

[originally published in Del Sur News]

Cost of Longterm Housing in San Juan del Sur

Thinking about a move to San Juan, but don’t know how much to budget for a rental?  Your monthly rent will vary widely depending on your needs, comfort level, and amenities.  Here are a few examples:

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When we first moved to San Juan, we rented a small one-bedroom, one bath home in Nicovale, a quiet community of 8 or 9 homes owned and managed by a Nicaraguan/Italian couple.  Located up a rather steep hill, the neighborhood was still walking distance to town (under 10 minutes), and a great workout on the way home.  Though we didn’t have a view, we loved the area for its proximity to town without being right on the main roads.  We could still hear the bumpin’ Semana Santa parties, but we were far enough removed from the main streets to escape the hourly announcement from the fruit and veg/scrap metal/politico trucks.  The owners were also very dedicated to their properties and managed repairs and ongoing maintenance swiftly.  Five years ago, we paid $450 per month, which included rent, electric (no a/c), water, twice weekly cleaning, security, parking, cable tv, and wifi.  The house came sparsely furnished, with basic kitchen utensils, and also included linens that were washed and changed twice a week.  The landlord also had a backup generator that he turned on during nighttime power outages.  The apartment served us well until we outgrew it and moved here:

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When I learned I was pregnant, two years later, we upgraded to a 2-bedroom, 2-bath newer construction unit in the same neighborhood.  This home had modern appliances and nicer furniture, as well as air conditioning in both bedrooms.  It also had the added bonus of a large balcony overlooking the bay.  We paid $700/month, which included all of the above amenities, minus electricity.  We averaged approximately $150/month on our electric bill, running both a/c units nightly.

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Two years later, our growing family prompted a third move – this time to a 4 bedroom, 2 bath house that also includes a fifth bed/bath in the pool house.  And it goes without saying that a pool house also suggests a pool (a large lap pool).  The house is a stand alone with large rancho, grill, as well as a two-car garage (we use one side while the other is reserved for the owners).  It sits in a small development of other standalone homes, each with different owners.  It’s nicely located within a 10-minute walk to the town beach and a 20-minute walk to town center.  Rent is $1,000/month and includes water, satellite tv, wifi, caretakers who maintain the grounds (excluding the pool) and provide security.  The house does not have backup and the water is on a pump system, so when the power goes out, we not only lose power, but water, too.

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To find out how we achieved the rental rate that we did, check back soon.  I’ll be offering more details and info on how to get the best rate for your rental.

To give you a sense of other options:

These 1 bedroom, furnished apartments, located right in town, rent for $350/month

This small development offers a variety of options sleeping 2-6 people and renting for $400 and up.

This studio, located just a few minutes walk from the beach currently rents for $550/month.

This 3 bedroom, 2-bath stand-alone home, in-town, rents for $600/month.

This 2 bedroom, 1 bath is a short walk to Playa Marsella and rents for $800/month.

This 2 bed, 2.5 bath condo, located a few minutes north of town rents for $1,200/month.

This stand-alone three bedroom home, located in the hills of the Pacific Marlin development, appx 10 minute drive from town rents for $1,500/month.

Ultimately, your decision on where to live will come down to your priorities.  Do you need a room with a view, a yard with a pool, or are you willing to sacrifice space for location and be closer to town?  How many rooms does your family require?  Can kids share bedrooms?  What amenities are you willing to give up and what are deal-breakers?  Do you want to live in a community or a standalone home?  Do finishings matter or can you make anyplace a home?  Keep in mind that power is expensive in this country.  You may think you want a home with central air (which is actually not too common here) until you receive your first electric bill.  Pools are fantastic to have, but you may prefer a rental with a shared pool that doesn’t require your time and energy.  Stand alone houses are great and private, but would you be happier in a neighborhood setting?

There are myriad ways to find your perfect rental.  When we moved here nearly 6 years ago, no one had long term options listed online.  We were lucky to find vacation rentals at that time.  But a lot has changed since 2008 and now you can do a large chunk of your search online at one of the many real estate/rental companies.  If that doesn’t work for you, it’s worth your time to skim the vrbo.com listings.  More often than not, owners there are looking for short-term vacation tenants, but you might get lucky.  Don’t forget to check local classifieds found in the Del Sur News.  You might even have luck checking Craigslist Nicaragua and Encuentra24, but these sites tend to focus on Managua and not San Juan del Sur.  And while it’s hard to imagine moving to a new country without home base, if you are traveling solo or have some flexibility, your best bet may be to stay in an inexpensive Guest House your first few weeks and spend some time simply wandering the streets.  You’d be amazed at what you can find just by asking around and showing up.

When you do find your dream spot, don’t forget the details.  Most rental companies will have you sign a rental agreement and pay some form of deposit.  If you rent direct from a homeowner, they may require a lease, but many don’t.  And be sure to ask the right questions:

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-Is electricity included?  Find out if they have old bills or can provide estimates of monthly usage if you will be paying this bill.

-What else is included? wifi, cable, water, security, parking, housekeeping, pool maintenance, etc.

-Any recent security issues?

-Who pays the caretaker salaries?  What happens if I am unhappy with the caretaker?

-Do you have backup power/water?

-What kind of water system does the house have, i.e. gravity tank, pumped well, town water.  This is important to ask because the type of water you have will determine when and how often you could be without.

-Are pets allowed?  Children?

-Who manages the property and to whom do I report maintenance issues?

-Who pays for repairs on the home?

It may seem complicated at first, but once you’re settled in your new place with a Nica Libre and the most beautiful sunsets, you’ll know that it was all worth it.  To learn some tips on how to save on rentals, check back soon for more exclusive info.

Teaching Opportunity in San Juan del Sur

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Don’t miss this exciting opportunity to live abroad in paradise while working with fantastic teachers and students.   San Juan del Sur Day School, located in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua is looking for a highly trained, experienced primary school teacher from the United States or Canada to work part time in a multi-age English immersion class of 18 students ranging in age from 4-8 years old. Fluency or familiarity with the Spanish language is desirable, though not required.  A minimum of a one-year commitment is expected.  In addition to teaching, candidate will have the opportunity to study/improve Spanish, practice yoga, and surf.  Applicants should submit a resume, cover letter, and two letters of reference to the school’s director Julie Speier at julieaspeier at hotmail dot com. To learn more about San Juan del Sur Day School, please visit our Facebook page at http://www.facebook.com/pages/San-Juan-del-Sur-Day-School/109137455588?ref=ts&fref=ts

The Trooper

I had some minor [major] car troubles yesterday, while Justin was out of town, and it reminded me of this early experience I had in Nicaragua…

Shortly after Justin and I moved to San Juan, he took off for a weeklong bachelor party in Colombia.  I knew the trip was planned before we even set foot on Nicaraguan soil, but I don’t think I truly believed that Justin would actually leave me sola in Nicaragua just 5 weeks into our adventure, until he did.  Nevertheless, I wasn’t going to be the girl who stood between Justin and his best buddy’s bachelor party, even if it was 1,000 miles away.

We had just purchased our new (old) car – a 1997 Isuzu Trooper, so I drove Justin to the airport in Managua and then planned to drive back to San Juan on my own.  Even now, after 4 years of life here, I can’t believe that I actually agreed to drive back from Managua, on my own, with absolutely no knowledge of Managua, the route to San Juan, or the transit “laws.”  I did it anyway.  Thankfully, our new friend, Baldo, was in Managua the same day and offered to ride back with me.  So after leaving Justin at the airport, I went to meet Baldo at Metrocentro, a mall just 15 minutes away and also a place I’d never been, but was certain that I could find easily.  A mere 4 hours later, I pulled into the parking lot and we were on our way.

I handed the keys over to Baldo, exhausted from my half-day trek around the winding streets of Managua, and we set off for San Juan.  As we neared Rivas, and dusk, our new (old) car began to show signs of distress.  First the interior dashboard lights began to dim and shortly thereafter, the radio stopped working.  Baldo assured me that we were fine, so we continued on our way.  We rounded the corner at La Virgen and embarked on the final passage home.  These days, that last stretch of road takes about 15 minutes to cover, end to end, but 4 years ago, that tiny stretch of highway required a 45-minute commitment thanks to giant potholes and endless desvios (detours).  So, it should come as no surprise to anyone that shortly after we made that turn, the sun set, the car stalled, and our headlights went out.

I encouraged Baldo to pull over – perhaps we could call a tow truck, I suggested.  Baldo just laughed and pointed out that not only were we in the black hole for cell phone signal, but it would be a long wait for Triple A.   Instead, he hopped out, push-started the car, jumped back in and we continued down the highway.  This time, Baldo only accelerated when climbing a hill.  The rest of the journey, we relied on dear old Newton and his Law of Motion, chugging up hills, using the gas, and coasting down hills using sheer momentum.   He did his best to get behind other vehicles (which were few and far between) to light our way home.

To reassure me [and to calm my intermittent hysterics and quiet my naïve mechanical suggestions], for the remainder of the ride, Baldo regaled me with stories of his teenage years.  He’d been in this very situation before, except that when the headlights went out, his buddy walked alongside the car, illuminating their way home with a Bic cigarette lighter.

At one point, the wind picked up, swirling dust into the car, so [naturally] I closed my [electric] window for protection to which Baldo sighed loudly and reminded me that we were trying to conserve the car’s energy, not deplete it.  You can imagine how thrilled he was when, a few minutes later, I began to lower the window to relieve my forehead from the beads of sweat forming across my brow.

Eventually, we rolled [quite literally] into town, stopping at the Texaco to charge up the Trooper’s battery for the final push up the giant hill in Pacific Marlin, where we were staying with friends.  Barely in the door, I burst into tears, cursed Justin and our dear Trooper, and fell into a dead sleep.

The following morning, I rose early in an attempt to get a jump on the day and a jumpstart for the car.  I walked out the door only to find a flat tire and decided it was the Trooper waving her white flag in surrender.  I laughed to myself, turned around, walked back inside the house and gave her a nice 7-day rest.  Because a Trooper she is.

Manhandling Managua

I need to take a moment to brag a little here…

Justin and I crushed it in Managua last week.  I mean, we freaking rocked.   Anyone who has ever ventured into Managua on a day trip understands this accomplishment.  If you plan on 4 hours to complete your errands, you can expect it to take 8.  If you hope to get home before sunset, you should assume that you will return before sunrise the following day.  If you dare to say “this shouldn’t take long,” it will take longer.

Managua days are tough for San Juaneño transplants.  Us Expats are used to having 5 malls within a 20 mile radius.  But not here in Nicaragua.   Two hours there, two hours back, and 14 hours of navigating labyrinth-style roads, stop-light window washers, semis and oxcarts in between.

Normally, we leave San Juan later than planned and get home much later than we hoped.  But last week, we put Managua to bed.  Just like that.  We got out of the house by 7:30.  We rented a [reliable] car with functioning a/c and managed to drive more than 80 kilometers per hour without fear of a breakdown (car or mental).  We rolled into Managua just after 9:30 and were so early that we even had to wait for stores to open.  In 7 hours, we accomplished this:

-Bank
-PriceSmart
-Doctor
-Migracion (visa renewal – arrived to find a minimum 2-hour wait, but jumped the line thanks to the awesome migracion ladies who remember and adore Lucy from her passport application
-Lunch (I resisted the BK urge that often accompanies stressful MGA days and leaves me feeling nappy)
-Transito (paid a multa from our last trip to Managua)
-Lab (pesky thyroid)
-Stop and Go (a little slice of heaven for Expats craving Dr. Pepper, red curry paste, Butterfingers, and anything else that you can’t seem to find anywhere else.)
-Bavaria (sausage kings)
-La Colonia (stocking up on Cheerios and chocolate)

And we still made it home in time to put Lucy to bed, too.